CURIEUX, Paris

Spaghetti is the latest fashion fare for the arty Marais crowd, writes Rosa Jackson.

What Wagamama is to South-East Asian food in London, CURIEUX hopes to become to Italian food in Paris – a chic, canteen-style ode to the noodle. Multiple wallpaper patterns set the tongue-in-cheek tone, while chandeliers illuminate the long counter (there is also elbow-to-elbow seating at benches). With refreshing disregard for no-carb fads, the arty Marais clientele chows down on giant bowls of spaghetti that don't take themselves too seriously (try the 'meat ball, ball, ball' or the flambéed gambas). It might not be al dente every time, but it won't leave a dent in your budget.

Rosa Jackson – Gourmet Traveller (Australia) – December 2004.